A few things. Did anyone mention you must level the bike first before adjusting saddle tilt (4 foot level on top of axels works fine). Once level, use a hard cover book on top of saddle with two foot level on top of that. Do this all the time BEFORE adjusting tilt and adjust slightly (maybe 1 degree ay a time between long rides) Use an inclinometer (phone app). Keep a record of where you are at. MMs do matter and it's easy to start chasing your tail and miss your sweet spots. Adjusting tilt on the road might result in too big an adjustment IMHO.
The process I like.
1 Find your saddle height first.
2 Balance point as mentioned, fore aft. If you can get your bike on a trainer gear as if your are going slighty uphill and see if you can swept your hand behind you. Saddle forward if you are falling forward. Get this right with a dead level saddle first and than forget fore aft it's set. Tilt adjustment only after many rides.
3 Saddle height changes when adjusting fore aft so recheck the height. Alway to exact spot on saddle.
4 From your picture it looks like your stem could too long IF all the above is good. I'd change stem length not fore aft as now you are chasing your tail if you mess with tilt fore aft etc. Move bars forward/backward/up down now. Leave saddle adjustments alone.
5 The other thing I believe not mentioned is the drop between saddle and the bars. Angled stem up/spacer up will lesson hand pressure and set you more upright.
Also remember if your are not in shape saddle pressure, hand issues lesson will lesson as you get stronger. Core strength does matter a lot! Any adjustment on your bike effects all the contact points so again IMHO a precise sequence must be followed to acheive best results.