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Old 10-05-17 | 10:39 AM
  #34  
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noglider
aka Tom Reingold
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

[MENTION=36875]speedlever[/MENTION], have a look at Peter White's article on fit. I really like it.

1. My advice is to set the saddle height first, and I believe you've done that.

2. A starting place for the saddle fore-aft position is the tip of the saddle should be one or two inches behind the crank spindle, as measured with a plumb bob.

3. Then you want to figure out which height and reach you want your bars to be at. This is hard, and there are lots of factors that weigh in. One of them is your conditioning, so whatever you are accustomed to is going to weigh in on what you prefer. As Peter White says, you want to be able to sit on the saddle and take your hands off the bars and feel like you can support your upper body's weight, at least for a moment. Some of this depends on your lower back's strength. It also depends on your flexibility. Strength and flexibility can be built, so there is a position that is good for now, but there may be another position later, when your strength or flexibility gets better or worse.

I've recently done a lot of dead lifts which have helped my lower back as well as butt and thighs. I'm more comfortable leaning forward, and now that my back can hold my shoulders up, I can apply more force to the pedals with my legs and butt. I don't have hand problems, though, thank goodness. Some lower back work might help to reduce pressure on your hands.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

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