Just some more comments ...
How I glue - now.
Goal is for a tight, unbreakable-by-riding bond at the edges for lowest Crr and no rolling on the rim (not rolling off, rolling on). There is some debate if the tire should be allowed to roll more on corners so it offers better grip. That is at the expense of Crr and possibly rolling off (although little concern) and gluing down the middle, getting glue in spoke holes. Tape would be the best choice if you want the roll, and or the re-bond on break, or the easy spare options. Those are not important to me and I don't use tape as posted above. Glue looses a lot of its weight when it is dry, while tape mostly doesn't. That is maybe some 25g. Tape is also more center based adhesive than the edges. I like the edges bonded (repeating myself).
I glue 90% on carbon now. A new rim will get roughed with 400 grit sand paper. Not 100% needed, I just do it. Then I clean with lacquer thinner. A Vittoria MasticOne glue tube works best, but I often use a can cause it is cheaper and I'm always running out of tubes, or one gets a hole and makes a mess. Everything always makes a mess anyway. I use my bare finger too, not gloved and clean up later, or have glue on my hands for a day or so. Naphtha can also be a solvent, but it does not dry/messes with the glue solvents so I try not to have it near my work. It is also pretty harsh on the environment (I'm told) and not even sold in my county. Many labels and sticker come off with these solvents. Work is best done in the garage with a door open.
I make a small hole in the glue tube and do a thin bead along one side of the rim and smooth with my figure. I might stick my finger in the can and make a thin layer instead of a glue tube. The can is more of a mess. I do the other side the same and the other rim, and clean up edges with a rag and solvent. I don't really let it dry but both get about 15 min in the air as part of the process.
Typically new tires go on rims for a few days before mounting. I will inflate them 50psi or so, check fit and sometimes might cut tape from around valve. Many times the hand applied based tape is on the valve. I may also put some electrical tape/or plummer's tape on valve extension if I want to avoid the valve hitting rim noise. Point is this is where you work out fit etc. I clean the tire base tape real well with lacquer thinner and generally do this before I start gluing. I inflate the tire until it twists/warps just a bit. That is ~15PSI. Do this too much and they tire will roll inside out, get smaller diameter and fatter width and mess with the tread bonds. It is not a good thing to do. I just want light PSI so the tire hold shape and twists sideways a little bit.
Tape is dry before it gets any glue and I would not use another solvent. I heavily glue each side of the tape - about 5-8 mm width. I twist the tire so the each side rolls out, glue that side, then the other. Not I normally do not spend much time at all with the center. Some rims the center is 1-2mm lower. There is this thing called a "Belgium glue job" where the center is filled with glue/or tape. Might be for the roll idea. I don't bother. With the tire tape edges quite saturated with glue I mount. I then center, do the roll on the flow thing on both sides, and if it is a race tire - I tie the tire onto the rim with nylon rope. This just drives the tire into the rim and seems to work better. I often skip this for a training tire. I inflate to around 100 PSI and let sit over night. I'll take the ropes off and clean glue flash the next day. The result is something as true as a clincher, with no, to minimal hops that are very tight and responsive. The bond is solid and tight. There is not much glue there at all and no play. It is not going to roll off, but can be removed with some hope of reusing the tire.
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