Originally Posted by
ciclista_pazza
Thanks. So do you think the dealer is incorrect that the 1 mm measurement is not necessary? Should I still make sure that's correct or is it ok to go with just the suggestion he had of making sure the rod and barrel adjuster are as close together as possible?
Lots of fumbling around in this thread. Your question about adjuster: the fat little nut is a LOCK NUT (inside red circle) . Loosen this lock nut before making adjustments, and tighten it against the adjustment barrel after adjustment, locking the barrel against loosening on its own. When the lock nut it tightened against the barrel there is obviously no gap between the 2. So, loosen lock nut, adjust, tighten lock nut.
Next: with lock nut loose and a little out of the way, you can turn barrel adjuster (inside green circle) either way; one way it will screw down, "swallowing" the threaded portion-this TIGHTENS the entire cable. Screwing it the other way, more thread becomes exposed, LOOSENING the entire cable assembly. After such adjustment, keep the adjuster barrel steady with one hand to prevent it from turning, and with the other hand turn the lock nut towards the barrel until it is against the barrel, and tighten it so it won't come undone.
Now to adjusting the actual cable tension:
Put the gear lever in 2nd gear. This refers to the gear lever on the right side, 2nd gear is the middle position. Backpedal a bit to ensure the gear is properly engaged.
Loosen lock nut.
Look through the inspection hole in the right-hand side axle nut, the one into which the tiny chain disappears. Make sure you can see the threads of the axle itself through the hole, and especially the end of the axle.
Out of the axle you will see the tiny chain coming out.
The tiny chain is fastened to a thin rod some 3mm thick. This rod goes inside the hub to operate gear shifts. If you can't see the rod, grab hold of the tiny chain and pull it out firmly so you can see the rod. This is just for your own clarification.
Now let go of the tiny chain. Backpedal a small amount to make sure the rod sinks in to the proper relaxed internal position. The end of the rod's round part must be level with the end of the axle.
If the rod's round end sticks out too far, LOOSEN the barrel adjuster until it is level with the axle end.
If the rod's round portion is hidden inside the axle, TIGHTEN the cable until you can see the end of the round portion of the rod just sticking out past the axle end, then loosen it again until you see it is level with the axle end.
Now hold the barrel adjuster and tighten the lock nut against it.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-...tml#adjustment