Originally Posted by
davei1980
Thanks!
I started this thread because I wanted to know which fit "fixes" to make and which departures from MTB geometry, which I am used to, are just going to take some time in the saddle to get used to! You have inspired me to put a few hundered miles down before I worry to much about swapping out parts.
One thing though - I have to say, if I am being honest, my biggest discomfort is the long reach. When my hands are on the hoods it feels stretched out.
I am probably MOST comfy with the hands on the straight part of the bar behind the hoods but there really isn't enough room to hold on and there's no access to the levers there.
So won't moving my saddle BACK exacerbate this problem?
Also, on the seat height, I calculated a range of seat heights using the Lemond method and the "subtract 10-10.5" method. The "subtract 10.5" method yielded the lowest height of the three calclulations, so, in theory, I can still go up as much as 5cm if need be and still be within reason. I do have small feet, that's why I decided to start w/ the lowest height. I got a long seatpost for this build so I have room to go if need be!!
I am in no way a passive guy, I have no problem putting in the work to get my body strong enough to where it needs to be too! I was riding 80+ miles/week but I have fallen off the wagon since the snow flew.
You'll get used to it, especially if you start doing some core work. Planks are good. And stretching. I do these stretches every morning just before breakfast:
IT Band pain (during ride)
Here's a more elaborate guide:
http://www.realresultsfitness.com/wp...hing-guide.pdf
Leaning forward at ~45° is good for your spine. It does create a slight moment about your pelvis which must be resisted by your hands which generate an opposite moment. But since it is a moment, the further your hands are from the moment's center, the less pressure is on them. Hence a good bit of reach is a good thing.