Originally Posted by Nelson37

When you say the battery was at 20%, based on what instrumentation, what exactly was the reading, and has the battery been consistently low when the problem has occurred?

the throttle meters are broad and ****ty... full, half, empty..
now i dont have a super high end techy meter but i did wire in a meter that reads out voltage and/or a percentage if i want it to... It crossed my mind that it could be the bms shutting the battery down but from past rides with this throttle and before that even if i did run the battery empty the throttle worked to the end... with the previous throttle even full batteries didnt make them work.

how ever to disprove this theory on the same eve this throttle acted up... as I headed home the battery got real weak and the bike got real heavy, so i plugged in an extra "emergency" battery I now have to get me home those last few miles should the main battery truly die out. At full charge (a 10s2p) the throttle still acted weird and cut out on the ride home.


Now, about those melted phase wires, are there ANY OTHER SERIOUS PROBLEMS, not ones that you think may or may not be important, but ANYTHING AT ALL that you have failed to mention on your bike, that is in any way unusual or different.

nothing off the top of my head.. is there any type of overheating cut off on the esc? I keep everything in a tool box on a rear rack, yes i run the bike consistent doing deliveries and that has some contained heat build up in the box, but im feeling with winter and the cold ambient temp outside that offers some offset.

Yes, melted phase wires could cause both your throttle problem and your range issue.

Yes, a battery depleted dangerously low could cause a system shutdown.

Yes, 20% battery level, especially depending on instrumentation used and type and quality of battery, can be dangerously depleted. In any case is not good operational procedure for optimum battery lifetime.

Im not overly concerned with life expectancy of the battery as Im not planning on being a delivery person (if i can help it) for many years... nor do i try and run the battery to empty if i can avoid it..not to mention it sucks trying to pedal a dead bike back to my charging location.

The most common reason for diagnostic failures is information that the actual user FAILS TO SUPPLY.

Previous throttles apparently contained a battery level meter? This is something to avoid. Describe the current throttle in this regard.