Old 01-09-18 | 06:49 AM
  #23  
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noglider
aka Tom Reingold
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
There are many challenges when only using the "dribble-drain-spin-dribble-drain-spin, etc." method of servicing a freewheel.

First, you will never know what contaminants or old grease which has turned into "plaster" or "peanut butter" has been left behind since there is no way to visually inspect the interior.

Second, you will never know if you have corroded bearings which need replacing, or damaged pawls & spring(s), or internal rusting which needs to be addressed.
These are true, but it has never mattered to me. Not overhauling a freewheel hasn't caused it to die on me.


Third, dripping oil into the freewheel is only a very temporary lube at best and can never seal the internals from future external contaminates, especially water, salt, and dust/grit.

Fourth, oil can be messy as centrifugal force spins the oil out between the gaps it was dribbled in, thus making a bigger mess of your sprockets, chain, frame, etc.
Are there freewheels which can be permanently sealed against contaminants? Periodic lubrication seems to work out dirt for me.

And yes, excess oil can get on the bike, and I see that as normal and expected in the life of a bike.

Clearly, my standards are lower. Pastor Bob's methods are best if you want to do the best job possible. I've had lots of freewheels but only overhauled a few. In fact, I'm not sure I've overhauled more than one of my own. The others were customers' while I worked in bike shops. And even there, I very rarely needed to do it. If my boss had found out, he might have been annoyed and told me just to replace it.
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