Maelochs

Hands going numb is generally one of very few things.

A.) Your gloves are too tight.

B.) The wrist openings on your sleeves are too tight.

C.) You have too much weight on your hands.

D.) You hold the bars wrong.

If your hands go completely numb I'd think C, then D.

D.) First off, be careful where you rest your hands. If you press on nerves they go numb. I could spend pages trying to describe where the radial and ulnar nerves run, and how to make bone-line contact or all the different grips to use which won't stress the hands .... but you would have more fun watching the dozens of YouTube videos which can both explain and illustrate it better.

C.) is a serious fit issue.

A lot of riders have the bars too low, too far forward, or both, because they think they are supposed to look like the guys in the Tour de France. Unless you have the thigh and core strength of a pro rider, you probably cannot ride efficiently in that position for long----and when you cannot support your weight well with your legs and your core gets tired, you lean on your arms and most of your body weight----and All the road shock----goers right into the hands.

Your legs should bear most of your weight, some should rest on the saddle (on the wide part of the back of the saddle unless you are climbing or sprinting) and the very least part should be supported by the weakest extremities of your weakest limbs, i.e. the hands.

As I understand it (again, go to YouTube and watch two dozen videos and get a Lot of different explanations----someone might describe exactly your situation) Fit starts with the seat.

There is pretty much a very small range of positions for the seat where your leg almost fully extends at the farthest point and doesn't hyperextend (which will cripple you quickly) and a certain tilt (usually close to level----extreme angles Tend to be (but nothing is definite) as sign you need to make changes) and fore-and-aft location. This is determined by the length of your leg bones, flexibility of the hips, length of your feet.

A lot of people recommend what is called KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) as a rough starting guide. Fine-tune it from there and once you hit it, that shouldn't change much.

Your bikes might all be too big--- too long in the top tube---or you might have too long stems (again, a lot of bikes (until the advent of "endurance geometry) come from the factory set up to imitate pro racer posture.)

What has been recommended to me is to get on the bike next to a support (I do it leaning against the washer/dryer) and swing your body forward a comfortable amount---as though you were reaching for the handlebars----but don't grab them. if the bars aren't where your hand are ... . then you are reaching for them when you ride.

I buy spacers (99 cents each on Ebay) and cheap stems ($13-$16 on EBay) so I can adjust my bikes easily. if you do a few lean-tests and you see your hand are coming up a fraction of an inch high or short or both .... consider buying a shorter stem or a more steeply angled stem, or adding spacers (for a carbon steerer fork, 40 mm or 50 mm is the Max unless you like to gamble with your face. I recommend 40 max but will push it personally .... if you ever saw my face you'd know why.)

I also have a heavy adjustable-angle stem in case I want to experiment that way .... but I don't recommend that.

I am not sure---I know the Bridgestone has a threaded fork so you could probably raise the bars with a wrench and a sharp rap (YouTube it.) Try raising the bars until you feel like they are too high, then drop them in increments. If the reach feels wrong, try a couple different stems --or short-reach bars. If it hurts to ride the bike now, changing it is worth the risk. It might not get better, but it might.

Further---if you have several different frames in different sizes, they all should have different length and angle stems, right? Swap them about and see how each feels. Whenever something feels right----measure it.

Measure from the intersection of the seatpost and saddle top (an estimate, of course) to the far end of the stem at the bars. measure from the bottom bracket spindle cover (dust cover over the crank bolt or crank tensioner, depending) (Middle of the end of the crank away from the pedal) to the intersection of the seat post and saddle top. Measure stack and reach (these are arguably the Most important.).

Measure all the basic geometry numbers (or look them up, should be easier) for all your bikes---top tube and seat tube, effective top tube and seat tube, head tube, chain stays, head- and seat-tube angles.

That way when you look at another bike, you can look at the geometry chart and see how it compares to the bikes to have. That helps a Ton.

No reason you cannot ride several different "frame sizes" because many frames have different shapes, and all that really matters is the relationship between control surfaces (purists will howl, because BB drop, trail, HT angles etc. all affect a bike's performance ... but we are talking FIT.)

I have a small frame with a long stem and a lot of seat post exposed and a bigger frame with shorter stem and less seat post exposed. Because of slight geometry variations and the way I adjusted the cockpit components both fit very well.

If you know all the measurements you have, you can know what works and what doesn't. if you also track the components (what stem length and angle? What reach and drop on the bars?) then you can follow changes and eventually figure out what is about right For You.

Please--- do Not be afraid to move stuff around. You can always move it back. Maybe you won't want to.

Never trust a 15-minute "test ride." All you can test there is shifting and brakes. Fit you feel after half an hour, or two hours. And never trust a salesman who seems eager to make a sale.

Some folks will sell you anything they can convince you to buy, figuring they will never see you again, but they will make the commission. That's why you measure all your bikes and learn to read a geometry chart. Don't let some guy who is thinking about his next beer purchase decide what bike you need.

Not sure why one knee hurts .... but it seems that it hurts on all your bikes? it could be that you have one leg much shorter than the other. It could be an old injury. That is the sort of thing I would research as a medical issue, not a bike-fit issue.

In any case .... there are opinions ... quite a few have been stated here, and I am sure you have seen hundreds more.

Personally, I favor YouTube (or Park Tools) for videos about bike-related stuff.

Remember, almost every cyclist you have ever heard of and literally tens of millions more we have not .... all rode without bike fittings. Every Tour de France or other Grands Tor winner up until a decade ago .... didn't use a computerized video bike fit ... yet they won all those races and rode all those miles.

As another poster or two also mentioned .... RESEARCH any fitter before you pay (if you choose to go that route.) Some are untalented hacks trying to pay for their fitter classes and equipment rental, others could fit you better without any tools or props better than most people could fit you with them. Some can help you .... some need help themselves.