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Old 01-26-18, 02:34 PM
  #67  
davlafont
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 207

Bikes: 2001 Specialized Expedition Sport | 1972 Raleigh Sprite 27 | 1973 Raleigh Super Course | 1984 Trek 720 | 2019 Cannondale SuperX

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I'm doing some winter projects and I've got my super up on the stand. I found some vintage white Carlton hoods that have cleaned up nicely. While there, I've changed the synthetic tape to cork in a darker shade brown, closer to the catalog. I still want to do a leather wrap, but I need to justify by riding it more.

I'm at a fork in the road, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to take it*. I tuned up the bottom bracket cup that had become snug. While spinning the crank (no chain) I find myself annoyed by a slight wobble in the chain ring. It causes a clicking in certain gear combinations and may have caused a dropped chain or two. This is the original steel Stronglight that has seen better days. When refurbishing the bike, I had to stake the spider-crankarm join to eliminate some play. I've had to bend a couple of teeth into alignment. I might be able to bend the ring flat I'm not entirely sure the wobble is the chain ring or the spindle, but if I have to remove that cotter pin again, it will be the last time. I've got my eye on some used cranksets and BBs on eBay.

Should I be looking at spindle lengths of 110, 111, 112? Or something other? (Assume a double crankset, perhaps Campy like the higher-end Raleighs came with.)

My true dilemma is that if I pull the BB apart, the bike is begging for me to pull the fork and headset and to do a fresh coat of paint. I guess with tapered square BB, it's less hassle to strip the frame down, so I could do a paint job later without a great amount of additional effort. Just thinking aloud here...


*apologies to Yogi Bera.

Last edited by davlafont; 01-26-18 at 02:37 PM.
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