Does this mean Another bike, or your first bike?

It seems you know your general size. Do you have a bike that fits already which you want to replace? Or just N+1?

I own a yard-sale bike, a bike which shouldn't fit which was .... well its very complicated but I ended up getting a bike someone else chose for someone else and I like it, luckily .... a Craigslist bike I "test-rode" around a parking lot mostly to see that the levers all worked, a bike which is too big that I bought because ti was almost free, and three bikes I bought online.

If you are new to cycling .... then sorry, but your best bet is to drive to a few shops regardless of time and cost, and make sure you know your size at least .... or pay to get a fitting.

This online utility works wonders for some and is garbage for others. Roll the dice: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp

I used those measurements, and a Dollar Store elementary school drafting kit to make a mechanical drawing of the bike i wanted, and using that, and measurements from existing bikes, figured out what size I needed. Once you know basically what you need in stack, reach, and saddle setback you can work out sizing from published geometry charts.

Also ... it helps to know what you like in a bike and what you like a bike to do, and like to do with a bike.

If you have No clue, then try thrift stores and yard sales, and very cheap bikes on EBay. Or, for $100, get a seven-speed flatbar bike from Wally's Box. From there you can learn about maintenance (not kidding but sort of) but you can also find how you like to ride, and you can learn where you like your contact points to be.

Once you figure out where saddle, pedals, and handlebars need to be for You to be comfortable, you can shop online with confidence.

As for the less quantifiable "feel" of a bike, tires are the biggest issue, followed maybe by wheels. .... and in terms of geometry, head-tube angle. If the bike has a 74-degree head-tube angle, every time you sneeze you will switch lanes. If the head tube is at has 67 degrees, every time you push the bars you will turn ... tomorrow (basically.)

Longer chain stays and a longer wheelbase tend to mean a bike which corners a bit more slowly ... but if you are not racing ... meh. Just a thing, not a huge thing.

Ask about tire clearance. A bike which can handle max 25-mm tires is probably meant for (or fancies itself to be meant for) rapid riders who aren't interested in comfort. 35-45 mm and it is more a gravel/touring bike, with wheels And tires which are probably heavier and a little more sluggish. 28 mm seems to be the happy medium for comfort and speed nowadays.

Beyond all that ... we need details.