Thanks for all the feedback, guys.
Originally Posted by
speedevil
I'd read through the directions, and follow them if they are specific enough. My second method would be to thread the DS cup in until the threads are just covered by the BB shell. Then I would test-fit the crankset on the DS spindle, checking the chainline measurement. If it's good, thread in the NDS cup and tighten to spec.
Those pictures were taken from the internet. I got mine used from Ebay, and so I don't have any directions. But it seems like trying to torque down the NDS first, once the DS is in the spot I want it to be, is the way to go.
Originally Posted by Kontact
You don't need to hold one cup, but you should grease where the body goes into the cups so the cups can be turned without turning the cartridge itself.
You'll find that if you get both cups in position and then torque down just the non-drive side that will go fine. There's no reason for the other cup to want to move - especially if it is English.
And that yellow stuff is thread locker.
I did put a nice amount of grease (actually, anti-seize) between the cups and the body, but wrenching on the drive side was still making the non-drive side spin. Strangely, though, tightening the NDS didn't spin the DS as easily, so I guess this is the way forward.
For the record, the BB is Italian, and the factory thread lock is long since worn away.
Originally Posted by Ghrumpy
That might be enough to keep the other cup from turning while torquing. If not, then yes, you'll need another tool.
Maybe I will try to slather on a bit more anti-seize. I know it's only a $10 tool, but buying a second one just for this seems a bit ridiculous.
Originally Posted by sch
Park tool is nominally priced @ $9.
I realize this is not helpful to the OP unless OP decides he really does need a 2d tool.
That is exactly the tool that I have, but see above. Maybe I just need to find a local friend with Campagnolo bits.