Old 03-14-18, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by wesmamyke View Post
I think the biggest issue with threading an unthreaded steerer is getting the die started straight.
This was part of a big debate here a couple years ago. Most folks stated that Park Tool's kit was for chasing only and definitely not meant to cut new threads. Especially on a steerer with no existing threads. They were adamant that cutting new threads was a huge risk, almost impossible, that the walls were too thin, and getting the die started straight was a near impossible task.

I pointed out that I have done this myself. I was told that I was a full of **** liar and it was obvious by my tone that I didn't have clue what I was talking about. I provided links to Park Tools instructions on how to use their threading tool to cut new threads on 100% unthreaded steerers. In fact, Park's instruction begin with cutting a naked steerer and end with chasing. I also provided links to Parks instructions on how to use their die GUIDE that is specifically designed to achieve a straight start on an UNthreaded steerer. A lot of poster got really nasty, saying that only an idiot would attempt such a project since the tools weren't meant for the task.

I never understood that.

Park makes a 1-1/8" die. (why? If not for cutting threads?)
They make a guide for getting a straight start.
Wall thickness on a threaded steerer is 1/16"
Wall thickness on a threadless steerer is 1/16"

Threading Procedure

When adding new threads to uncut column, it is important the die be fully opened. This will take a minimal cut of material. The die must be adjusted and again used to cut more thread depth. The process is repeated three to four times until the diameter is reduced enough to thread on the headset.
Place FTS-1 onto fork column (figure 8). Guide will align die and handle square to steering column.igure 8. Handle and die are held aligned to column by use of the guide
Even the photos are of an uncut steerer.

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