Here's a couple of data points WRT fixing bonded carbon to AL.


I have followed Kuota's verbal instructions to clean and rebond a seat stay to a LH drop out. The epoxy was their recommendation (one of two choices they speced, bought in a local hardware store. I chose the slower curing version (my ski repair experience guided my choice in wanting a longer wet period to set the alignment during) I used a good rear wheel to establish the vertical alignment, blocks held the wheel within the stays equally (the QR was only snugged as to not change the drop out's original verticalness, or lack of). This was in 2011 and the bike was tuned up last year bu our shop, still in one piece.


I have also watched as a carbon frame had it's brake bridge rebonded onto one stay. Wish I could remember the brand but the bridge was a machined AL affair, kind of clunky with it's attempt at more surface area contact with the stays (didn't help on the bad side). Again my friend pulled the stay back from the bridge, cleaned with solvent (acetone I think by the smell), applied epoxy and toe strapped the stay against the bridge. Again a few years later the bike was still solid.


The first bike bonding failure I remember seeing was when I was taking Eisentraut's class in Rutland (1979) on an AL to AL fork drop out. I don't know what was done with that one but Al expressed both the reapirability as well as that she (the rider) should have gotten a steel bike instead.


In my two stints in the retail ski service business (mid 1970s and mid 1980s) we repaired many skis made of various materials (fiber glass and I thing carbon fibers) that used steel edges and AL binding retention plates. These were usually done with the understanding the repairs were not a life long solution. But I do know of at least a couple pairs of skis repaired by us that were handed down to the kids a season or two later. Andy