Yeah, the mounts are sturdy.

At night
I took a few night photos next to a brightly lit parking lot.

Really dark streets are fine with any old blinky, it's the mixed dark and lighted areas or riding before or after sunset that need better tail lights.

I underexposed to match what it looked like to my eye. Cygolite Pro 150 on steady, which is about 90 lumens. It's short, sharp flashes are 150 lumens.

I think I'll aim the tail light slightly more downward. It still shows plenty of vertical coverage in the fence photos.

It's a Dinotte headlight on "dim" at 500 lumens, 1/4 power. In the city, I use either the 1000 lumen setting or the 2000 lumen (!) if there's traffic. Aimed down a bit to save the driver eyes, and make a big pool of light on the street. On dark country roads, it's mostly 500 lumens, 1000 if I'm near 18-20 mph, 2000 on downhills. The brighter settings have extremely bright glare from reflective signs, quite annoying.

Photos
1. Shot from a little off center, but still in the cone of max brightness. The center of the beam is overexposed in the photo, it's way too bright for the exposure.

You can see how a bright headlight helps with identifying this as a bike.
And I usually have a pair of reflective leg bands, which are quite bright with car reflected light.

( ISO 1600, F2.7, 1/15 second exposure)


2. Farther off center. Still very bright. I think this light has a beam that's more than wide enough. Tail lights are more for seeing the rider at longer distances. Up close, like this, reflective clothing, tail lights, and head lights all work together.


3. Still bright. And the headlight pool of light on the road is bright.


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In the next two photos, I'd be already past a car approaching on a side street. Headlights do most of the work for side street cars, the tail light is for overtaking drivers.
4. Lots of spill light from the tail light.


5. It even shows past 90 degrees to the side.