Joe- And use two headset wrenches when doing the final tightening. Hold the wrench that's on the threaded race stationary and only rotate the top nut's wrench. Also start the final adjustment process with the bike assembled and on the floor with the initial headset a tad loose. Rock the bike back and forth when locking only the ft brake, the front tire's contact with the floor will be a pivot point that the loose in heat tube fork will rock within. The bit by bit reset the adjustment, tighten the top nut fully and retest for any rock. When the rock has JUST vanished, the threaded parts are fully countered tightened and the fork swings freely when the bike is slightly tipped to one side your adjustment is correct. If you can't get to this free swing under only the handle bar's weight or the rock can't be eliminated the headset is likely worn (out). Andy