Other people mentioned the stand over height but not the head tube length. Your right they vary quite a bit and on smaller frames the stack would be a good deal smaller (even though the reach would be similar) which may not be comfortable for riding.
Originally Posted by
Tourist in MSN
Years ago when top tubes were always horizontal, there was a theory that you should have a fist full of seatpost between the saddle and the frame. But with sloping top tubes, that no longer applies.
I think you need to look at stand over height and then probably get the tallest frame that is not too tall for standover. If in doubt, go with the shorter of the two that are closest so you do not have a stand over problem. With shorter frame size, you might find it is hard to get the bars as high as you want them. A larger frame size might also be less likely to have toe overlap, but if the top tube length is nearly the same on several frames the wheel base probably is nearly the same on all those sizes too.
The windsor tourist photos I have seen, some had quill stem and some threadless. Not sure about Fuji. Adjusting the handlebar height and reach is different with different stem types. I just bought a new bike last month, needed a new stem to change the reach and bar height, but with threadless it was easy to figure out what stem to buy and bought it. Quill is harder to change.