Originally Posted by
cyccommute
The chain is no where near the wheel so the dork disc did nothing. If the lower part of the derailer had contacted the spokes...not saying it did..., the dork disc wouldn't have prevented that anyway.
Actually, you can't see it from the photos I posted, but the pulley that's closest to the cassette is actually pressed intro the dork disk pretty tightly - enough to have left a dent in it.
Originally Posted by
cyccommute
Have you been hearing mysterious chain slapping noise occasionally? It's hard to put into words but, occasionally, the chain will make a slapping noise or you can feel the chain move when you haven't made a shift or it may make the noise after you've shifted. That could be caused by a burr on the rings. Are the rings old? Do you see any signs of the rings having damage...it would show up as a shiny scrape on the ring? All these could have caused the problem. It could still be the chain but it could be other causes as well.
The chainrings probably have at least 3,000 miles on them, and they honestly do not look worn. I wasn't hearing any sort of slapping noise like you describe with the previous chain on any recent rides.
The thing is, years ago, on a completely different and much older bike, I had different shop install a new chain, and the
very first thing they said was that the cassette will have to be replaced as well (a few cogs were visibly worn), and possibly the chainrings. (In the end, the cassette was replaced, and the chainrings were deemed fine.) This particular mechanic was adamant - and rightly so - that thoroughly checking both cassette and chainrings was mandatory when even considering a new chain. That being said, should the onus be on every mechanic who is asked to replace a chain to thoroughly inspect both the cassette and chainrings?
Originally Posted by
cyccommute
Finally, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your frame is probably gone. Look at your second picture. The hanger is bent way back behind the axle and the slot for the axle is significantly wider than it should be. You might be able to straighten the hanger but it is more likely to just break off than bend back. And getting the dropout slot back to the width it needs to be would be next to impossible.
Interesting that I'm getting some differing opinions on this. I suppose this sort of thing might be difficult to determine definitively - even with a good, clear photo - without seeing it in person. The frame being toast is clearly my biggest concern. And if the shop does successfully straighten it, I do worry that that part will forever be compromised (not to mention, the value of the frame itself will have decreased significantly).