Originally Posted by
Pavol Stromcek
Actually, you can't see it from the photos I posted, but the pulley that's closest to the cassette is actually pressed intro the dork disk pretty tightly - enough to have left a dent in it.
The disc did nothing to protect the spokes in this case. The dork disc only protects against the chain going behind the cassette on over shifts
when the derailer is improperly adjusted. You may have dented the plastic but it offered no protection because your chain was no where near the spokes.
Originally Posted by
Pavol Stromcek
The chainrings probably have at least 3,000 miles on them, and they honestly do not look worn. I wasn't hearing any sort of slapping noise like you describe with the previous chain on any recent rides.
3000 miles is a lot of mileage. The burrs that form are a random event that can occur in the first 10th of a mile or the last 10th of a mile or anywhere in between. They probably form often but are somewhat self-correcting as the chain pulls off most of them. But, occasionally, they don't.
Originally Posted by
Pavol Stromcek
The thing is, years ago, on a completely different and much older bike, I had different shop install a new chain, and the very first thing they said was that the cassette will have to be replaced as well (a few cogs were visibly worn), and possibly the chainrings. (In the end, the cassette was replaced, and the chainrings were deemed fine.) This particular mechanic was adamant - and rightly so - that thoroughly checking both cassette and chainrings was mandatory when even considering a new chain. That being said, should the onus be on every mechanic who is asked to replace a chain to thoroughly inspect both the cassette and chainrings?
No, I wouldn't say the onus is on the mechanic to inspect the cassette and chainrings. You didn't ask them to inspect the chainrings, only to change the chain. They aren't psychic nor clairvoyant. And a burr can be incredibly small. Often, you can only find it by looking closely at each tooth and testing to see if it will hook your fingernail.
Originally Posted by
Pavol Stromcek
Interesting that I'm getting some differing opinions on this. I suppose this sort of thing might be difficult to determine definitively - even with a good, clear photo - without seeing it in person. The frame being toast is clearly my biggest concern. And if the shop does successfully straighten it, I do worry that that part will forever be compromised (not to mention, the value of the frame itself will have decreased significantly).
Your hanger is twisted way back from where it was originally, which is almost directly under the axle. The twist to the hanger is bad enough but it's also displaced about the width (or more) of the hanger rearward. That means that the dropout has been bent backwards too. Steel is tough but there are limits. I would say that you've passed those limits.