Originally Posted by
bergerkjh
Ok I see what’s going on here. We all hate the fixed gear guy because you nerds love your gears and think you’re so cool shifting and clipping in, and wear spandex with sewed in diapers and let’s also point out choosing the easiest gear possible to ride in, I see you out there. Option B youre too stupid to understand my initial statement. At no point did I request advice on my bike.
I specifically asked what effect losing 10lbs would be. Think physics not biology. Maybe show some inkling of proof, maybe even a graph or calculation. Duh get some gears. Never should of mentioned the climbs, I apologize for misleading you. But I also stated I’m going 30ph so do you really think I’m out of shape and can’t get up the hills?
Now......with everyone mentioning 10lbs or 4% lighter not going to help much. Clearly you did not bother reading the article that was so politely shared.
I expected some actual inteligent comments here. Clearly the bulk of you spend more time trolling here than riding.
“Here’s another one. On a hilly loop course, a 20-pound weight difference in bikes yielded a 13.6-percent drop in speed. Extrapolating that to your 12-pound weight difference, you’d be looking at an eight-percent speed loss.
Personally, I would find a six-percent or eight-percent speed loss to be rather unbearable, but if you don’t care about that, then no need to spend the extra money”
― Lennard
Oh, c'mon. This is the roadie forum. Helpful comments are frequently incidental. Be that as it may, Racing Dan provided a calculator link in post 22. Run the numbers yourself, say for a 6% grade. Here's another good one:
Bicycle Speed (Velocity) And Power Calculator
On my SS rides, I found that learning to pedal perfect circles while seated made the biggest difference in climbing long grades. Easy to pop up short ones standing, harder to keep that up for a couple miles. I used ~70" gear, topped out at 25 or so. A riding buddy of mine uses a 90" gear in the mountains. Beast.