+1 I go for the first ride or two with no tape, just some electrical to get the cables to behave. I bring all the wrenches, stem (both) and brake levers and make as may stops as I need to to dial things in. Then I tape the bars with cloth tape from the bar plugs toward the stem; cloth because I can then unwrap to the brakes, move them and re-wrap as many times as I need to.

I get a kick out of all the "rules" for setting bars and brake levers. I never have had brake levers where the ends were in line with the drops (the old "rule"). All the rotations of the bars and brake levers are to get my hands into positions where I do not suffer chronic injuries from out of the saddle climbing. (Adopting to not quite optimum positions riding the flat is no big deal for me, never slowed me down and didn't lead to injuries so I just don't sweat it.) As I grow older, the rotations of the brake levers and dropout flats is mattering more and I am finding I have to rotate everything forward and down to eliminate tingling and pain in my hands. On several bikes, the drops are past vertical with the brake hood parallel to the drops. It looks quite extreme, like something out of the 1950s, but it works. I get to come home with happy hands from hilly 100 mile fix gear rides.

Bring the wrenches, Don't settle until everything feels "just right". And keep your eyes open. You will change and "just right" will move. You may be looking at a different stem or different bars a year from now.

Ben