Originally Posted by
Caliper
I never said the suspension fork was for comfort, but for the occasional time I benefit from it on my drop bar 29'er on the road (usually because I got lazy and didn't notice the pothole), it still sucks power *every time* I get out of the saddle... I will admit to being tempted by the Lauf suspension fork for gravel though. 30mm of travel via a carbon leaf spring setup. Just enough to even out the bumps that the tires don't take up. the 80mm travel fork on my 20er is huge overkill on the roads here.
Most people
do think that suspension forks are for comfort. I was using your post to make a point.
On the other hand, if your fork is sucking power every time you get out of the saddle, you need to experience a better fork. The forks on all of my suspended "gravel bikes" (aka to the rest of the world as "mountain bikes") have very positive lockouts. If the fork is locked, there is no bobbing when I get out of the saddle to pedal. Most quality mountain bikes have lockable forks now.
Originally Posted by
Caliper
These dirt roads I'm talking about are all over the midwest. We call them "roads". As in, there are miles and miles of them set up in a grid pattern that covers entire counties whenever outside of city or village limits. Around here, there are the state routes and a few other major thoroughfares which are paved, 55mph speed limit, and a gravel shoulder, but unless you are in town any turn off that main road will probably be onto gravel. These aren't isolated roads out into wilderness like in CO, these are roads past peoples houses. Mostly 5-10 acre lots. Many current and former farms on larger plots also. Some farms that sold out and became a subdivision. The subs tend to be paved, but the road through the sub is probably only a mile of pavement and doesn't connect to anything anyways. Yes, there are sections of washboard near intersections and other areas with potholes but nothing that a decent line and 35-40mm tires doesn't handle. I suppose that is a selection for the worst terrain I encounter because a 28-32mm tire would work for a lot of the roads. These are roads that many people drive miles over for their daily commute so while we complain about maintenance, they really aren't that bad. Technically, the speed limit is 55mph on these dirt roads and most are fully capable of that, but the traffic volume is extremely low because everyone heads to the closest paved road as part of their drive. On the roads around here, nothing has ever held me back on a descent except for aero drag and corners, but that's even on my hardtail 29'er. With a road bike background, I'm still not good at trusting cornering on dirt but getting better.
Take a look at a Colorado map. There's a line that basically bisects the state from north to south just about, but not quite, right down the middle. On the left is mountains. On the right is plains. We have those same "miles and miles of them [of a] grid pattern" on the right hand side of the state. I, unlike most of my fellow Coloradans, have actually explored that part of the state rather extensively. I even grew up out in middle of that grid and have both driven and ridden on a lot of it. I'm well aware of the extent and, more importantly to the discussion, the condition of those roads. The slightest amount of traffic on the slightest uphill or slightest corner quickly induces the wave pattern that we call "washboard"...or if you really want to be authentic "warshboard". And washboards are only one of the problems I've encountered on dirt roads. Sand is just as bad and a whole lot worse to handle on narrow tires then it is on wide tires.
I've ridden washboards on rigid bikes. I'm not a fan. I can get through them but the beat me to pieces. I've ridden washboards on suspended bikes. I'm still not a fan but they handle the washboard a whole lot better and, more importantly, faster.
I don't have a "background" one way or the other. I have road bikes
and mountain bikes. I ride them in about equal measure. But I pick the tool that works best for the job and if point as ADAP7IVE says
... is long rides and tours on variable terrain--some smooth roads, but rough roads, gravel, and forest roads of varying upkeep. Ideally I'd move at a smooth pace when unloaded too.
a mountain bike would do a much better job for everything
but smooth roads. It doesn't do a horrible job on smooth roads, either. Given the bikes he listed as possibilities, I'd even suggest going to the Moots YBB. I have one and have used it for off-road touring...that's why I bought it...and it performed marvelously.
Originally Posted by
Caliper
I'm not sure what you are trying to show. Both links take me to the same map of the Denver Metro area.