In keeping with the "How To" title of the thread, let me add some info and a few thoughts for anyone considering doing this. I am a little bit frustrated right now because of the complexity I've found in what seems like a simple operation. Heck, I even bought new bars and this is still not easy or simple. Really, to make this conversion fast and simple, just replace everything. It costs a lot of money* but you have to pick any two - fast, cheap or simple.
I don't think it would work for someone who did not have access to the tools and box of spare parts and general resources I have and especially the additional time I've spent pretending to be,... umm, ... err,... I mean to say, ... the additional experience I have wrenching on my bikes.
When you change bars, have to be prepared for every interface to change. You also may find a need for a lot of parts and materials which you may or may not have.
1. Interfaces you need to evaluate and/or modify, a short list follows.
- Stem-to-steering tube
- Stem-to-bars
- Bars-to-shifter - diameter, type and clearance to access and operate the paddles
- Bars-to-brake levers - diameter and type
- Brake cable-to-lever (type of swaged end)
- Brake cable-to- brake caliper - length, need for a barrel adjuster
2. Parts and supplies you are likely going to need
- Handlebar tape
- Bar end plugs
- Brake cables (2)
- Shifter cable
- Brake cable housing (2)
- Barrel adjusters for brake cables (2)
- Brake cable hanger, clamp-on type** (for front brake)
- Brake levers (2)
- Gear shifter
- Rear view mirror (if bar or lever mounted)
* Honestly, you can buy an inexpensive, complete donor bike for less than the cost of new parts. Just strip off the stem, handlebars, cables and hanger.
** If you need a front brake cable hanger like I did (cantilever or center-pull brakes, consider a clamp-on type. Inserting a thick hanger bracket into the stack height of the threaded head set is most likely not going to work, as the brackets tend to be about 1/8" thick. That extra height may exceed what's available for properly threading the lock nut onto the top of the head set stack.