Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,835
Likes: 1,816
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
One can fine-tune any new wheel using axle-spacing tweeks to match an existing wheel on one side or the other (cassette or disc side), but the separation distnce across the hubshell could still be another variable that might require a different cassette spacer or disc shimming.
This is why I have several bikes (at least this is one of the reasons why I have several bikes).
Even on non-disc bikes, it's a hassle making sure that the indexing and limit screws are adjusted just right (and that the brake calipers are adjusted just right) when changing wheels.
Add to that the two cassettes which might have different levels of wear but which must work with the same worn chain and these are irritating little grievances I have with frequent wheel swaps.
Just get another bike in lieu of each additional pair of wheels. If it's just a once-per-season swap then I guess one bike might suffice, but there can be serious issues with misadjusted rear derailers including cable breakage (over-tight limit screw) or chain into the spokes. I often deal with broken cables where the owner has adjusted their cable tension without bothering to revisit their low-limit screw adjustment.