Originally Posted by
bikemig
Seatpost slippling is not normal for Treks or indeed any well built bike.
Trek made some of the nicest sports touring bikes out there. There's a lot to be said for a road bike that can take 32c tires.
You can deal with the paint chipping by touching it up.
I'd start a separate post on the seatpost issue you are having to get some advice on how best to deal with it. I would have thought that a shim should have done the trick but apparently it is not.
The shim has stopped it from slipping, I had no issues with it moving even on a bumpy first ride last night, but I have bottomed out the clamp bolt. It is quite strange especially on such a nice frame.
Originally Posted by
phtomita
I had a very similar issue on a Sekai GT2700. The seatpost looked like stuck and was hard to move up or down in my case.
I noticed the blaze on ear was bent each other like in your pic. With a minus driver I opened it to have the cut parallel, but still was hard to come up.
Twisting left-right it came out but got similar scratch marks as you have. Using a sand paper I sanded around until the seatpost would move freely up and down.
Then it was noticeable that the post size was smaller than the tube size - around 1 mm in diameter (?).
Got a cheap post from the bike recycle shop and now fits perfectly.
The seatpost slides in quite smoothly, with just the slightest bit of resistance as you would expect from a properly sized post. I tried another post that is a known good fit into another 27.2 frame and it had the same issue. I'm hesitant to try and bend the ears because to me that would just spread the top of the seat tube even farther, and I wouldn't gain anything.
Originally Posted by
nesteel
Even with the correct 27.2 post in, I find I have to crank the binder bolt pretty far to keep the post from slipping on my '83 720. Really only three choices: either the binder bolt is stretching that far, the ears are deflecting, or at some point (possibly during manufacturing?) the seat tube was reamed to far.
I suppose an out of spec post wouldn't help the issue.
My concern is that the seat tube was reamed too far. I am actually bottoming out the shoulder of the binder bolt on the threads of the ears, so I don't believe that it would be the binder bolt stretching. As I've mentioned, above, I did try another seatpost that is a known good fit into a different frame and had the same issue.
Originally Posted by
RiddleOfSteel
Such a beautiful blue! You can find automotive touch up paint at an O'reilly's or Auto Zone and there will be a number of blue metallic paints to choose from. You may just be surprised at how much better and "complete" (paint-wise) your 710 will look after doing that! A little bit of wax should really make that thing pop even more. I'm excited for you!
Thank you! I am hoping that I can find a good match, it may be a while since there is so much touch-up work to be done that it will certainly be an all-day project. Plus I don't want to tear down the frame to prep it for touch-up or wax since I just want to ride it!
Originally Posted by
The Golden Boy
Congratulations!
As far as I'm aware, you're only talking about the Trek 720s and the 1985 620. Other than that- most any other touring or "road" bike of the 80s top out at 45cm for chain stay length. I don't know of any other "road" bike that has 47 cm chainstays.
You are correct. Once I decided that a Trek would probably work for me I did come across those limousines a couple times. I knew that a 720 was out of reach for me but I did see a couple of 620s that got me a little excited until I saw the chainstay length.