When I moved up from a 12-25 cassette to 11-28 I had to put the B-screw all the way in to keep the jockey wheel off the cassette, and that reduced shifting speed and accuracy. Removing one or two links from the chain improved the situation significantly, and I was able to back-out the B-screw a bit. So you may be on the right track.

You want to first assure that you CAN remove a link or two. You should follow online instructions from Shimano, Sheldon Brown, etc. on how to calculate chain length. The last thing would would want to do is end up in a situation where shifting into the large chainring while still in the largest rear cog (something you probably wouldn't do intentionally, but could easily do accidentally) causes an explosion of drive train parts.

You may also be experiencing a limitation of your rear derailleur. My RD is designed for up to 27t, which I wasn't aware of when I moved to a 28t cassette. It works well enough. But you've made a larger jump, and may have a harder time getting it to work. There are derailleur hanger extenders that may help. But it's possible your RD just cannot accommodate that many teeth. The manufacturer's spec sheet for your RD should say for sure. In my experience it seems possible to go one tooth larger. Some people have success going a couple teeth larger than the spec. YMMV.