Thanks for the comments. So a few things. The dropouts are fully welded. I think I do have some wiggle room if I needed to cut the dropouts off and start again. I'm limited with my alignment tools, but I do have a table that, while the entire table isn't perfectly flat, I know where the flat areas are and aren't. I can use it somewhat with a BB post that I have. I'm working on getting a legit alignment table such as the Bringheli. I also have a Park ***-2 that I use and when measuring the dropouts they are extremely close. I will say though that with hooded dropouts it's a bit tougher to measure.

Regarding the alignment of the front triangle, I've put the frame in the post on my table (with the NDS facing down) and measured the center line of the frame all around. The worst spot is at the ST, TT junction where it is about 2mm low of center. The HT and DT are about 1mm low and get better the closer I get to the BB. My thought on aligning this would be to put a 2x4 or something through the frame and prop up one end and then apply some force downward, forcing the tubes to come up. If that even makes sense. Having said all of this, I should probably face the BB and then check it all again.

Andy - I see what you mean regarding the height and I'll have a look at it this afternoon when I get home. Correcting the height would align the top of the wheel, but it would still be pitched to the right, right? Even if the stays are equidistant from center, wouldn't the wheel remain in the same direction? Just trying to wrap my head all of the alignment tips and tricks.

Thanks all!

Brandon