View Single Post
Old 01-03-19, 10:30 AM
  #3  
linberl
Senior Member
 
linberl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,340

Bikes: 2017 Bike Friday PakiT. Dahon Mu Uno (trailer bike) Sold: 2003 Bike Friday NWT, 1997 Trek 720, 1993 Trek 520)

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 902 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by seamuis View Post


the main use for chaintugs by most people is for easy setting (micro adjustment) of chain tension when a wheel needs to be removed and then replaced. You don’t and shouldn’t need a chaintug to hold the axle in place. The axle nuts should do that. If they don’t, then they need to be replaced. If you want to use chaintugs, realistically you only need one. Most people would place it on the drive side (side with the chainring)

setting chain tension and getting the wheel centred can be a fiddly thing, especially if you don’t have any experience. But it’s completely possible to do without any chaintugs. My advice would actually be to practice at home, at setting tension and centering the wheel. You should be able to develop your own way of doing it easily enough. If you need help, there are plenty of video tutorials on YouTube, and I think a video demonstration would be more helpful than me trying to spell it out in a block of text. Someone else might be able to chime in with an easy to read checklist of procedure though.

yes, the tension is set by “feel”. But the general rule is that it should have no more (or less, realistically) than half an inch of slack (up/down) movement. A little slack is much better than having it too tight.

Fixing a flat with the wheel still attached? Nonsense. Practice removing, replacing, setting tension and centering the wheel. Once you’re well versed, pulling the wheel off to fix a flat should be a quick, simple procedure.
Thanks, sounds like I don't need to add any other kind of nuts. I will find some videos and see how to set the tension. As for fixing flats with the wheel still attached, I do it all the time --- deflate, pull the section of tube out that has the offending object and patch and put it back and inflate. I even do that with QR wheels on my Bike Friday...but you have to be able to see from the tire what caused the flat. Takes a 5 minute job and makes it a 2 minute job =). But sometimes you can't see from the tire where the tube is punctured, thus the need to learn how to remove my SS wheel.
I also saw somehting about "track nuts" and wonder if they are worth it. Being a "little old lady" I'm a bit concerned about being able to snug the axle nuts back down tight enough once I replace a wheel. I don't have a lot of hand or arm strength compared to a typical fixie/ss rider. If it's tight as I can get it but doesn't hold, that would not be a good thing.
linberl is offline