We seem to have some things in common. I am using older Campy 10 speed set up. I've been building bikes for 40+ years and build my own wheels. Here are some tips: Carbon issues with levers and logo wearing down. Had a problem with mine simply dropped the bike once stupid accident in my driveway which chipped off a small section of the clear coat on my 10 speed Record levers. Chip was where the logo "Record" went. I rode with it like that for about a month or so then decided to go for it. I disassembled the levers and and sanded all of the clear coat off. Started with 320 grit sandpaper to remove the clear coat and white logos. Then went to 600 grit, then 1200 grit. Levers came out so smooth there was no need for clear coat. You could theoretically do this without dissembling the levers but they are not that hard to take a part to get the lever part off. You basically remove the lever from the bar and punch out the lever pin with a punch and hammer. The results are not wet shiny but have a nice mat finish. (See photo) I was very happy with the results. So that is my solution for logo issues on carbon parts. You can often find parts online that need sanding as long as your willing to do the work and do mind losing the logos you can end up with a new looking part. Alloy parts can be sanded down and then polished with rubbing compound to a mirror chrome like finish (see crankset pic)

Record ISO taper cranks with 111 Centaur English BSA bottom bracket and Titanium self-removing crank bolts (aftermarket brand via EB). Note I have since changed the front derailleur to a Record
I think your problem with the cranks is that the PZ Crank arms you stated have a JIS taper, not ISO like the Campagnolo. Campy and Mavic use an ISO taper while most other brands use JIS taper. Basically the difference is where the crank ends up positioned improperly from left to right on the crank spindle taper. 115 axle length is the correct length for a triple on a 32.8 outer diameter down tube. The solution will be to use a Japanese JIS taper bottom bracket with your current crank arm or to use a Campangnolo crank arm with your Centaur 115 BB. I use a 111 Centaur BB with a double set up and 115 if I am doing a triple. I have also successfully used a 111 ISO BB with a Campy Racing Triple on another bike build on a Marin Cross bike frame without any issues, so you don't necessarily need a 115 but it sounds like you already have one. Sometimes a 111 BB can give you better shifting and better chain line with a triple if you can get away with it. Most issues are with the low setting of the front derailleur hitting the down tube when using a 111 BB. This depends on where you need to set your minimum limit screw on your front derailleur set up. As far overall gearing I have a custom cassette I put together from a couple of other cassettes I got online. I have a 10 Speed Campy 11-28t (11,12,13,15,17,19,21,23,26,28) The 28 tooth is actually a last position Miche cog and the rest are Campagnolo. No shifting issues and I'm using this with a 53/39 front chain ring and a short cage rear Centaur 10 Speed Derailleur (though I removed the Centaur log since I have a mix of component levels I prefer it this way - Logos on Rear Derailleur come off with a little patience and careful scraping with a razor blade followed by some polishing compound and a buffer). Looks like you have a 13-29 Veloce Cassette you ordered so that sounds like a nice solution. I think a 46 tooth outer chain ring is a little low if you are going to the 29 tooth in the rear so you could go with a 50, 52 or 53 big ring on front outer chain ring. You could even use a short cage rear derailleur if needed as long as you avoid the big and big combo cross-chain but it sounds like you already have a medium cage which is ideal. As far as ergo levers on my wife's bike I installed a pair of Campagnolo Xenon 10 speed levers (about $110 new) and they shift just fine so you may want to look for those. I got them go them brand new paid $110 for them and they were new with the cables too. It was a great deal and I think you can pick up a pair of these levers you won't be disappointed. I won't lie the Record levers are nice with the carbon and they feel a little smoother but the Xenon 10 speed levers shift perfectly and they're definitely a great value for the money. By the way you can use 11 speed rear or front derailleurs on 9 10 or 11 speed drive train. The only thing is on the upper pulley on the rear derailleur you'll want to use a 10 speed upper pulley theoretically. For example I put a new 11 speed rear Chorus derailleur on my wife's bike with no issues (I did install a 10 speed upper pulley on the 11 speed rear and it all works with all of the other drive train that is Campagnolo 10 speed) . The main thing is you always need to match the levers with the amount of rear gears. The naming of 9 speed 10 speed and 11 speed on other parts is mainly marketing and a way to get you to buy parts you don't need. I can't speak with the conversion spring kits but I would avoid them if possible. I'm also not sure about the very latest 11 speed front derailleurs with the new higher lever position which gives more leverage. It might shift better if anything is my guess. Sorry the system thinks I'm posting urls so I deleted the pictures for now.