The numbers on your tensiometer are just numbers. They really don't mean anything other than 18 is higher, thus tighter, than 16. If your goal is 110 kgf, here's how to be sure:
1. The hard part is finding a standard. You need to find a spoke the same diameter and metallurgy as the ones that you are working with that is also known to have exactly 110 kgf of tension.
2. Measure that spoke with your tensiometer. Notice what the reading is. Match that reading as you are tensioning your wheel and you'll achieve your target tension.

So now you've got your wheel as true as you think reasonable with tension readings as close as you can achieve but the overall wheel tension is less than your proven reliable rear wheel. That's the balance between tension and trueness that you are looking for, but you're still not up to full tension yet.
If it was my wheel I'd tighten every spoke 1/2 turn and compare my spoke tensions with my rear wheel again. If they still seemed loose, I'd tighten every spoke another 1/2 turn until they feel about the same. It doesn't really matter if you compare your wheel with your known reliable wheel by feeling the tension with your fingers, plucking the spokes for tone, or using your tensiometer.