Originally Posted by
63rickert
OTOH a very slightly, I mean slightly, loose HS is the one that will last more or less indefinitely. No such thing as preload on a HS. Any tightness, one degree of tightness, you have a head bearing about to fail. Most head bearings do fail in short order, but they can be ridden a long time brinneled without anyone noticing.
The same person I spoke with who spoke of loose headsets ovalizing headtubes over time also said a headset slightly tight being preferable to slightly loose. My impression is that if there is any bit of play in the bearing, the resultant micro-impacts will wear an indentation on the races in the front and rear of the assembly.
Originally Posted by
63rickert
An eighth of a turn is absolutely enormous when adjusting headsets. If that's your idea better to take this to a mechanic. Overtightened headsets fail very quickly.
Just to clarify, I said 1/8 in an offhanded way but what I really meant was something more like 1/16. As alluded to above, I am starting to lean toward the idea of a very slightly preloaded bearing idea. Also, to advise someone who is working to refine their understanding/technique instead to visit a professional is ridiculous, not to mention antithetical to using this forum.
Originally Posted by
wschruba
Assuming this is for a road bike, and the headset is properly adjusted, the damage you have was probably caused by lack of lubrication replenishment. Searching for 'false brinelling' will lead to plenty of information about this.
This headset was only recently installed and usually likely pack more grease than necessary, which can make it more difficult to adjust initially, requiring readjustment more quickly as the 'grease settles.' I have installed and ridden many headsets that have not developed problems, but the speed of failure on this begs investigation.
Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
Alloy VS steel- Alloy is lighter, generally found in mid to better grade (not cheap entry level) and with sealing features beyond any found in a cartridge bearing, made from softer material (easier on the frame/fork but also easier to strip the threads with). Steel is found across the entire grade range, often at a lower price then a matching alloy version, often not found with a cartridge bearing or added sealing, stronger threads and not as easily rounded off nut flats,
I mention the thread strength because one of the more common repairs I make on alloy headsets that have been used loose is to replace the top/lock nut due to it's threads being damaged from the rocking about on the steel fork's steerer. Even these days we sell a number of steel top/lock nuts a year. Andy
The main reason I am not actively looking into a different headset is because my steerer tube is exactly the right length for the stack height existing headset. Also, it seems there is little reason to source the alloy variety just to shave a few dozen grams off a 27 lbs steel bike.
Originally Posted by
100bikes
Have you had the head tube faced?
The precision of fit after a proper facing will allow the cups to seat properly and will provide parallel
bearing surfaces.
Check the location of the brinelling i.e. is the it oriented or more significant in one area?
Makes even a mediocre headset perform better.
Making sure the mounting surfaces for the races are parallel is great advice.