I've tried various tricks to feel a little less stretched out on various bikes. My bikes technically the right size for me but due to old neck and shoulder injuries I'm more comfortable with reduced reach.

I switched my '89 Ironman from the original stem (130mm, I think) to 90mm. Much better. Took a few rides to get adjusted to the handling. It felt a bit twitchy for a few rides, especially on fast curves. But it feels just right now. I wouldn't want a stem any shorter with my bike.

Tipping the bar up a bit or raising the brakes/hoods up a bit can help a little. I don't like anything too extreme or odd looking, but I've found a reasonable compromise for my bike's original drops and brakes/hoods.

Brifters like the MicroShift for 7 or 8 speed would improve the ergonomics a bit and make the reach feel a little less stretched out, compared with the skimpy hooks of older aero brake hoods, which tended to be a bit low when the drops were adjusted so the bottom of the bar is parallel with the ground. I'm about to switch my other road bike from older style aero brakes/hoods to brifters. It'll get my neck into a better position and feel more comfortable on longer rides without giving up too much in aerodynamics.

My biggest bike is an old Univega Via Carisma, which was technically my size but the top tube is long relative to the seat tube and standover height. Over three years I've switched it from the original flat to riser bars (about 1 1/2") to albatross bars. The albatross bar shortened the reach enough that I wanted to get the bar height a bit lower, closer to saddle height. The original upward angled stem wouldn't accommodate that so I swapped in the long stem from my Centurion Ironman. Perfect. The albatross bars are keepers. They combine upright comfort when using the bar end grips, to some aero advantage when leaning forward into the curved part of the bar. It feels like riding the hoods of my road bikes. And I don't feel stretched out, no neck pain.

Another tip is getting the saddle position right. While saddle position shouldn't be used to adjust reach, with some bikes setting up a saddle correctly for efficiency and knee health may also reduce the reach a bit. With my older bike's typical setback seat post, I had to shove the saddle fully forward on the rails to get the right position. A zero setback seat post would accomplish the same thing, but I haven't had any problems with my saddle rails at the forward limit. I might not try that with saddles that have a reputation for rails deforming (such as some heavier riders report with some Selle Anatomica saddles). But I weigh 150 and haven't had any problems with my Selle Italias.