Oh yeah, the National Parks are expensive. Both in the US and Canada. That includes entry fee, camping, food.

In Canada, you're kind of on the honor system. We went through 8 Nat'l Parks last summer. You can ride (or drive) right into just about any of the parks without buying or showing a pass. That's because the highways run right through, and they don't even try to charge admission to through-travelers. An exception is Waterton Lakes, which is on a dead-end road; there, you can't enter without showing a pass.

The Canadian park personnell are friendly and helpful, they'll take their time to help you choose the right pass. On the other hand, the US parks (at least the ones in the west) are manned by no-nonsense enforcement-minded semi-military rangers who don't appreciate any off-topic questions or comments. I'm not a confrontational person, but I've somehow managed to raise the hackles of just about every US park ranger at an entrance gate.

Canada has a $55 annual pass (individual); or $109 for up to seven people. (Check here.) Really, it's a bargain. Considering there are almost a dozen national parks clustered in the Rockies, it's the only way to go, even for a two-week trip. We bought one at Waterton, and spent the next few weeks wandering through Kootenay, Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Glacier, Revelstoke, Prince Albert; we breezed through the entrance stations without showing our pass, but with a clear conscience. And we still have 8 months left to go back and enjoy 'em again.


The Banff/Jasper hostels are the cheapest accomodations (aside from camping -- which ain't cheap, either). But be sure you join Hostelling International before you book, it's an extra $10 or $20 if you're not a member. For two people, Beauty Creek Hostel would've cost us $60 or $70 (can't remember exactly); the campground down the road was $24 (plus extra for a campfire permit). In the case of Beauty Creek, it's very rustic (no running water, hose shower, etc.) so it didn't make sense to pay for 'indoor camping'. That's not true for the hostels in town (Jasper/Lake Louise/Banff), which are hotel-class. (Check here.)

-- Mark