Originally Posted by
BigChief
I've never put anywhere near that level of stress on an AW but I can tell you this. I think the most likely point of failure would be the splined joint of the cog to the driver. I would stick to 1/8" cogs not the 3/32". Every bit of purchase helps. Also, sometimes the drivers aren't machined perfectly and there can be either too much slop or too tight of a fit so the circlip doesn't fully engage in it's channel. It's rare, but I have run into both of those conditions over the years.
I hadn't considered that being a point of failure, I was figuring that something inside the hub would give first. To shear off 3 of the splines on the cog would really take some torque though, the cog is hardened steel.
Originally Posted by
horatio
Thanks for the info. Fork is still in the bike, on the repair stand. Would they be easier to bend out of the frame?
Out of the bike would be more precise, you could make a couple of chunks of 2x4 with a hole drilled in them and cut them in half so you could clamp the steer tube in a vice then work one leg at a time, you could put a long 2x4 between the legs of the fork to pry on the end of one leg with the other end of the 2x4 right up against the fork crown.