Originally Posted by
Charles Wahl
Vintage-style adjustment: a long-handled box-end wrench, 10 mm.
Mine is from Mac tools, though Snap-On is the C&V upgrade path. You turn both bolts with wrench handle held exiting the rear of the saddle, between the frame tubes: the front bolt is done with the wrench turned one way, and flipped over to turn the rear bolt -- to work with the offset bend on the box end -- one "notch" per bolt, alternating. It takes a bit of time, but the advantage is that you do things slowly, and don't tilt the saddle too fast, or make it really loose so that it moves back and forth. Of course, if you need to do that, then just loosen one of the bolts one or two notches in succession. My wrench is long, but not so long that it doesn't fit in a zip-pocket of my rear saddlebag; and doesn't weigh too much either. Of course, I have to remove the saddlebag to adjust the saddle.
I use one of these made by SK tools, it's about 4" long. I had a Craftsman 10 mm with a Craftsman set of small metric combo wrenches, and somehow the Craftsman 10 mm vanished and the SK was left in its place. I dunno ... but it's good quality, no wear after 20 years.
You have to lift the skirts of a Brooks Pro or B17 to engage the wrench, but it works perfectly. I also have an offset 10 mm box-end made by Park tool just for this purpose and imitating the Campagnolo tool, but it isn't better. The other end of the Park tool is sized for the leather tension bolt, but we all know those should not commonly be dinked with.
If you use this seatpost with a saddle that has a perineal cutout, like a Selle AnAtomica, this seatpost becomes a piece of cake, because you can just use a 10 mm socket to adjust the pitch angle and fore-aft. The old 8-9-10 triple 6 point socket wrench is perfect for this.