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I've used an 8" x 3/4" brass drift for years to center side pulls that don't have adjusting flats. I place the end on top of the spring at the center pivot and give it a gentle tap or two. Works every time. I also recheck the tightness of the rear mounting nut before and after minor surgery. I've seen the nut loosen a little after the operation.

In the past year I've had the pleasure of overhauling Weinmann 605 brake calipers plus DiaCompe levers and DiaCompe 610 calipers. I wasn't aware of the differences in the springs but just about every thing else between the 2 brands interchange.

I took the suicide levers off of a set of DiaCompe levers and replaced the red pivot pins with Weinmann ones, also the nylon bushings. Those bushing wear quickly especially with the angular torque applied by the suicide levers. Replacing the bushings makes a big difference in the levers.

The later version DiaCompe center pulls came with decent pads that have a lot of stopping power. Again, I sand down the faces of all of my brake pads whether new or replacements or during servicing.

3M makes a product called Drywall Sanding Screen. It's inexpensive and you can get it at hardware and paint stores. Medium grit works well for sanding down the braking surfaces of pads.

I put a sheet of paper on a flat surface and put the screen on top of it (the paper makes it easy to collect and dispose of the dust). A few minutes per pad making sure the faces are square to the holders and it's done. taking 1mm of old hard pad face takes a little longer.


Screen Cloth looks like this:



I have Weinmann 999 brakes on my 1965 Tigra. The caliper arms are beefier than on later 610/750 brakes.




Old Weinmann 500 style side pulls on a 1960 Schwinn Paramount




Notice both style brakes have short 3 Dot brake pads.

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