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Old 08-07-19 | 07:15 AM
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Tourist in MSN
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Madison, WI

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

One of my bikes, sometimes I use a rack with a rack mounted taillight, sometimes take the rack off and instead use a seatstay mounted light. Thus, I wire it quickly for temporary use. And wrap the wires around the frame tubing where there are no cables running along the tubing. But where there is a brake cable along the tubing (top tube or down tube) I wrap the wire around the brake cable. Looks similar to your wiring job, but without the tape. Quite frankly, I think it does not look to bad but would likely look worse with tape like you used.

A bit of history on my dyno usage:

- I bought my first dynohub in 2013, only used it with headlamp or USB charging, did not use it with a dyno powered taillight. Initially I chose to not use a dyno powered taillight for two reasons, I wanted to have flashing light capability during day time and it was going to be used on an S&S bike where I did not want more complications in splitting the frame and packing the bike. Thus battery taillight made sense.

- Later I decided I could use that one wheel on two different touring bikes, and one of those bikes could use either a solid fork or a suspension fork. Thus, that one wheel was used on three different forks. Thus, I zip tied wire to the fork blade from the fork crown to the dropouts on all three forks, so I could move the wheel from fork to fork without having to move any wiring. And bought spare hub connectors so all I had to do was plug in the hub when I switched which fork that wheel was on. In other words, each fork was wired with permanent, not temporary wiring. Used 18 or 20 or maybe 22 gauge two wires, twisted together.

- Four years later, bought my Lynskey frame. Decided to build that up with dynohub, headlight with USB (Luxos U) and also a dyno powered taillight on the fender. And decided to permanently wire that bike, as the wheel and other components on it would not be moved around from bike to bike. Photos of that are above.

- After that, picked up a couple of used dynohub wheels at unbelievably low prices, they were donated to a bike charity that had too many wheels in stock so they were trying to get rid of some of their inventory. One of those wheels is the one you labeled above as the winner, I had a vintage headlight in storage so I wired it up with that hub on my errand bike.

- And one of those used wheels went on my rando bike. The headlight wiring to the fork dropout is permanent, but allows temporary addition of a USB charger. The taillight wiring on that bike is temporary.

Thus, my wiring is sometimes intended to be permanent but sometimes intended to be temporary. I will try to add a photo later of my rando bike headlamp wiring, that is a bit unique.

I got home about a month ago from a five week long bike tour in the Canadian Maritimes. On that trip, I wired a USB charger to the dynohub, but did not use any dyno powered lighting at all. The sole purpose of the hub was for charging a variety of batteries. Changed the AAA batteries in my battery powered taillights each week even though they still looked pretty bright, used NiMH rechargeable AAA batteries for taillights. Never rode at night so never needed my USB powered bike headlamp on that trip.

Last edited by Tourist in MSN; 08-07-19 at 07:20 AM.
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