Originally Posted by
kevinf1990
Regarding steerer tube, I can measure from the bottom of the steerer tube to where I want to cut and subtract 3mm (meaning removing more steerer tube). If I go with this route, my stem would be sitting at the top with no spacers above the stems.
The other way would be to measure from the bottom of the steerer tube to where I want to cut and add 3mm (meaning removing less steerer tube then I need). If I go with this route, then I would put in my spacers, then stem, then maybe a 3mm spacer above the stem and then stem cap?
Also what are good torque wrenches that are affordable (i.e cheaper then the Park tools TW-5.2) for bicycle applications?
Don't cut your steerer tube at all for now. It's not something you want to calculate -- you want to see and feel exactly where the cut should be after everything has been installed.
Others have given you good advice, I just want to try to amplify.
Get a stack of steer tube spacers and build up the entire bike. Use the spacers to fill the distance between the headset, stem, and top cap. You can then move the stem up and down among the spacers to see exactly where you want it. Ride it. Experiment. Do not cut anything.
When you're sure you have the handlebars where you want them, get ready to cut. Take off the top cap and any spacers under it. Scribe a line with a pencil, a white paint marker or something similar using the top of your stem as a guide. Take off the stem, remove the fork and then decide if you want to be conservative and cut above the line by 3 mm and use a spacer, or a bit below it and go without. Your top cap determines how much below the stem you need to cut. 2-3 mm usually does it.
If you use a clamp to hold your steer tube when you cut it, don't crush it. Don't clamp it down like it's a 2x4 or something.