+1 cup and cone. Adjusted properly, they last virtually forever, but it's common for them not to be adjusted properly since they're typically too tight from the factory for some reason, and many shops don't consider hub adjustment to be part of a new bike build, which is slack. Running them too tight will kill the cones in a matter of weeks or months.

Provided the sealing is decent, cracking them open every year or two actually sounds excessive to me.

Cartridge hubs are a PITA; most lack proper preload adjustment, which is really only a good idea with special angular contact cartridges, and correct preload adjustment is critical to bearing life. Some wheels rattle from new! Many develop rattle in short order, with no way to rectify it other than fresh bearings. Often the only sealing is a dust seal intended for electric motor applications, and when a cartridge bearing becomes contaminated, the bearing is usually toast. It's possible to disassemble and clean a cartridge bearing, but soo not worth the hassle, unless of course you're stuck with something you can't find a replacement for.

Furthermore, the only rear hubs worth a damn in my book employ the cassette body as a stressed member to place the drive side axle bearing close to the dropout, and AFAIK that's only Shimano and some cheap brands like Alex and Joytech, all cup and cone. Mavic kinda splits the difference, but not only do they use cartridge bearings, its not even a full set - the inboard cassette bearing is a poxy plastic bushing which needs frequent disassembly to lube, or the pedals turn when you wheel the bike and the chain goes slack when you coast at speed.

In short, Shimano or bust when it comes to hubs. I'm pretty agnostic regarding brands, but there are vast discrepancies in the hub department.