The big problem with re-anodizing a component is that all of the non aluminum pieces have to be removed. The original anodizing is then electrochemically stripped off which can destroy the previously polished surface.

Aluminum anodizing electrochemically creates a layer of aluminum oxide which is embedded into the surface of the metal. This provides corrosion and abrasion resistance to protect the finish of the part. The coating is porous and is generally chemically sealed to increase the protection.

In cosmetic anodizing as opposed to hard anodizing the coating ranges in thickness from 2µm (2 microns or 0.00008") to ~25µm (0.001"). Thin anodizing ins clear or transparent.

Hard anodizing such as used on some bike rims can run from .002" up to .005" thick and is dark gray or brown to black in color.

Colors in cosmetic anodizing are created with organic or inorganic dyes that get absorbed into the porous surface. Inorganic dyes last much longer.

So, the easiest solution for the OP might be to find a clamp band from a Suntour Cyclone FD and remove it. The hard part is going to be finding an anodizer/plater who can apply the gold dye to a small part like that.

verktyg