If the single chainring is also radially symmetric, then you could flip it around to move the teeth to either side of the chainring. Oh, nevermind, i see that one of the bolt arms has a curved key shape, so it will only fit in one way. Actually, the key is a negative curvature, so if the FC-5800 doesn't have this key shape, then you could flip the chainring around. Flipping and mounting on the other side of the flange will probably move the chainline by around 6mm.

Wolftooth website says Chainline 47.5mm. So if you want 43.5mm, then you need to move the chainring 4mm inward.

If you flip the chainring and mount on the inner side of the flange to move 6mm inward, then you could probably use MTB BB cups with shaved road sleeve and add 3mm spacers to the drive side to get your 4mm chainline move. Or else use a MTB BB on non drive side, and road BB on the drive side with 2mm spacers, although MTB cups have longer threads, so maybe it's better to use all MTB cups. If you already have the road BBs, then you could try it out first and then measure your new chainline. Then afterward decide how to adjust it.

Otherwise, just using MTB BB cups without spacers and without moving your chainring will move your chainline 1mm inward to 46.5mm. Your spindle length will increase by 2mm, so have to check to make sure the splines on the NDS doesn't bottom out.

But actually maybe a chainline between 46-47mm might be good to prevent chain rub when on the outermost cogs. At 43.5mm or less, you might start to get chain rub on the inner cogs when on the outermost cogs. Road triple chainline is 45mm. The outer chainring on my double is somewhere around 47.5 to 48mm, and it works fine with all cogs, even when pedaling backwards, but very noisy on the inner 2 most big cogs. You'll have to just try and see.