Originally Posted by
markjenn
Probably the latter. I was thinking of the 38t limitation with road 130bcd cranks, but I think you can physically go down to something like 30t on 110.
I bet 38t would be a good compromise, however. Going lower really starts hampering you high gear in a 1x with an 11t cog.
- Mark
110 seems to be limited to 33t unless its an irregular spider, my FSA goes down to a 32t which is hard to find.
From my experience pulling a trailer loaded with stuff on a tour (kids are too small to deal with their own equipment and wife had to learn what is really necessary) along with panniers so quite the load I had a 36 11/32. The 36/11 wasn't as fast as I'd have liked when the roads sloped a little or even cruising with the wind at my back, often found myself once the momentum was going cruising in the 46/13 or even 12 on the longer downhills; a 10t with a 36 chainring would have done it. I did end up walking a couple of hills with the 36/32 and as a result my bike now sports a 46/34 and 11/36 which I think should be more then sufficient to get me up any hills. If you run a 36t at 36/39 which your 42t skips over you'd be easier then my 34/36. I'd suspect a 36t might be a better ring to try out for an allrounder that will have ok speed and decent climbing.