Powell, thanks for the quick response. I spent the day checking the display switches, connectors and wiring. The switches connect to the display board via a 6 conductor ribbon cable. The center 2 (#3 and
#4 ) are both ground and connect to one side of all 4 switches. The other side of each switch is as follows:
#1 up arrow;
#2 on;
#5 C button;
#6 down arrow. All of my switches work very well tested at the end of the ribbon and on the board after the ribbon inserted into the connector. No corrosion or wear anywhere inside.
#2[/URL] 22222]Motor has nothing to do with display/ctr. going blank.
You are right. If I connect an external 5V to the display's red and black it lights up, tests all LCDs, then audible alarm until turned off. See the wiring connections below, the 5v display power comes from the battery charge boards. Only the black(ground) and the green wire connect directly to the battery charge boards. When the "on" is pressed Green connects to Black(ground) through 210 ohm resistance. The charge board senses the long push and sends 5V to turn on the display. The hub has no connection to this 5V line.
My problem has to be in the charge boards. I have 2 sets of upper and lower boards that have all worked before. I tried all combination and the bike usually works for a while, then the display goes blank and won't restart until I change boards or who knows what. I know it sounds like a loose connection, but I can't solve it.
#2[/URL] 22222]why do you want it to open it?
On the off chance there is a broken or loose wire inside, I'd fix it and give it another go. Failing that, I would disconnect the controller, bring out the 5 hall and 3 phase wires and connect to a 40a Crystalyte controller. I got a bunch and they have been bullet proof. Regen braking, 3 power levels, 40step cruise control, direct connect CycleAnalyst or not, and higher voltage if I choose. If something does fry, I can change a $1 part inside the controller or hub pretty easily. Mainly... I could get rid of those damn battery charge boards which does nothing except keep the display happy, and maybe handle low volt cut off.
#2[/URL] 22222]I remember the fight to open this snap ring, as far as I remember I managed to open snap ring without removing the collar.
Even if I could get the snap ring out of it's groove, it would never go over the collar. Tried pushing the pushing the collar through the bearing, but it locks on the snap ring. I finally strip the treads on my 2 jaw (cheapo) puller. I'll have to give up; at least for now. I'll put another hub wheel on frame and new controller. It will be a nice ride and reliable. With 21ah at 36v or 54v it will have great speed and range.
