Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,197
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
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Quoted: 1566 Post(s)
The external lockring is right-hand threaded, so even if you can get a grip on it you also have to hold the freewheel cogs from turning CCW.
Those things are very tough to remove, but some are on tighter than others.
I used to have to take the early HG 6s freewheels apart to source the five largest HG cogs, later used on a 7s Dura-Ace body.
I made a dozen of them using 14-28t and 14-32t HG freewhwheels, still have a few. These customized freewheels sold for almost $200 from the one vendor who listed them.
So, when I removed most of those lockrings, I would usually attack the ring at the bench grinder.
I recall that with Sunrace freewheels, I was able to file two wrench flats onto the OD of their very different lockring. I later modified the handle of an old chain whip to engage two of the four internal lugs.
In this day and age, I have to ask why anyone is wanting to remove a cheap Shimano freewheel's lockring(?), especially as there is no easy or non-destructive way to do it.