Hey, world, I see your Covid-19 and raise you not one but two, TWO(!), TB14s. That makes 28, which is 9 better than 19. Winning. We're totally winning right here.

So the time has come for a changing of the guards. My dynamic vintage wheel duo, the prettiest and most coveted wheelset that any frame in my stable would envy to adorn, the visual standard of vintage excellence (in my mind), a wheelset purchased on eBay years ago, has succumbed to time and chance. In part. Let us pour one out for yet another mighty Mavic, the MA2. The king is dead, long live the king!

A few years ago, I noticed a splitting in the seam at the joint of the rear wheel. Present on both sides but it held, and I was advised that it was ok for now (or at least that's what I remember). It's been 45mph+ down Hurricane Ridge, likely the fastest any of my wheelsets (and frames, too, that being my former '85 Peloton), so I think I tested out the "it's fine" conclusion properly.

Fast forward to a few months ago, and I notice the classic cracking at the eyelets while extensively cleaning the wheelset. Rear wheel. Four eyelets to be exact, with pairs of cracks at opposite sides. How long were they there? Who knows. But I do know that I will have to start thinking about replacing the rim at some point. Would a new wheelset be a better idea than simply a rim or rims replaced? Would a new wheelset that allows for 11 speeds be a smart choice via ensuring future compatibility? Could I source a replacement polished 32-hole 700C MA2 rim for a reasonable cost?

I searched a number of times, in a number of places, and came up empty. I decided I could continue looking, or look into what rims could be a direct swap (or close), thus keeping costs down as wheel building can add up. My criteria were same or very similar ERD, box section, high polished silver, and good quality. There were three choices: a very good condition polished MA2, the TB14, or the Pacenti Brevet.

Mavic MA2 ERD: 613mm
H Plus Son TB14 ERD: 610mm
Pacenti Brevet ERD: 611mm

Why keep the hubs and spokes, instead of buying a 'package build' from someone else for not too much more and minus a lot of effort? Well, when your hubs (7400-era Dura-Ace 8-speed in that classic high polish) and the spokes (very obviously externally butted 2.0 - 1.7 - 2.0mm examples) are still in excellent shape, it's a great base to start from. I have a pair of 7700-era Dura-Ace hubs, but the polish is different and they're only 28-hole--a little light for a (sport) touring Paramount. So the goal was doubly set: keep the hubs, keep the spokes, find a replacement rim / buy new rims, replace the spoke nipples.

On a whim, I decided to peak behind the (rim tape) curtain and see how the spoke/nipple situation was doing. I was greeted by this (and a lot more brown caking in other holes):



Yikes! But then, that's nearly 30 years of life with the last five or so being under my tenure. I bought the wheelset for $200 shipped and have enjoyed many miles with them. They don't owe anyone anything.

I also noticed that at least half the spokes on the non-drive side of the rear wheel, and all of the spokes on the front wheel, were a bit 'shy' of the base of the slit in the top of the nipple [edited as I had spoken of a certain thread engagement amount as ideal and it was incorrect--this has been omitted]. It was a good surprise. Why? Because it meant that I could theoretically swap Brevets or TB14s and have a better spoke thread engagement situation than before. In fact, it was so much better in my mind that I said "forget another MA2, lets go straight for new!"