Old 06-10-20 | 04:37 AM
  #23  
montanasoftware
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 27
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From: Western Montana

Bikes: 1970s Gitane Tour de France with double-butted Reynolds 531 throughout and Sport-Touring geometry; 1985 Cannondale racing; 1990s Fuji racing frameset with Reynolds 853 & Ultegra groupo; 1990s old "beater" Univega CroMo Mtn. Bike.

Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
I just am not sure I want a saddle that outweighs my wheel set.
I used to feel that way. My first bike (in 1982) was my brother's old french-threaded Gitane Tour de France built in the 70s. Reynolds 531 double-butted throughout, with the sport-touring geometry. And of course a tensioned leather saddle. All bikes came with that kind of saddle back then. I used to ride that thing about 600-700 miles per month. Not huge numbers, but a very pleasant experience. Then I decided I wanted to lighten everything up, so I got a 1985 ultra-stiff Cannondale with twitchy racing geometry, and, of course, a lightweight plastic-foam saddle. I was never able to spend as much time in the saddle after that. After a long ride, my legs would feel beat up (from the stiff aluminum), instead of pleasantly tired. And my rear end would hurt .. I could never get used to the saddle. I tried a lot of different saddles ... all with pretty much the same result.

Finally, I realized that it was actually inefficient to put so much emphasis on weight savings. Maybe for short races, the weight savings would be worth it. But for long rides, I could actually put in more miles in less time using the heavier steel frame with the leather saddle. The human-bike combination makes an awesome machine, but I was ignoring the "human" side of the equation. For me, the leather saddle/steel frame combo was much better suited to my biological machine and yielded better results.

But that was just my experience ... I'm not trying to tell anyone else what to do with their own bike.

Last edited by montanasoftware; 06-10-20 at 09:01 AM.
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