Originally Posted by seypat

I read back through the thread. I generally run a 52/40-42/30 triple up front. The rear cluster is a 5-8 speed with a 11-14 small sprocket and a 28t big. That works well for me because I am a masher more than a spinner. The 52/42 is good for most riding with the 28 in back. The 30 3rd ring is there for when it is needed. There is a climbing ride that rccardr and I do each year which I have a triple crankset made up with a 50/36/28 that I put on for that ride. I tried a 52/36/28. It would not work. The front derailleurs I tried were not MTB specific wide range derailleurs. With the 52/28 combo, the chain would hit the cage roller at the bottom of the FD cage. With the 52/30 or the 50/28 it would not. I don't know about a 50/26. Once you get into the 26 and 24t range, then you are in the range of classic MTB gearing which rccardr talks about. Whole drivetrains were designed around gearing like that.

The 50/36/28 I have shifts well, but it is only practical for that ride. The 50t is only there to get me through the first 20 miles where there is not a lot of climbing over all. The bike is intentionally geared low for that ride only. The point Jeff makes about having a small chainring is probably valid when it comes to shifting. A bigger middle ring would be more practical for everyday riding anyway, if you are going to run a 14t sprocket in back as your highest gear.

All I use are triples. The reality is you will have to purchase at least one ring, maybe 2. Or a different freewheel/cassette with a higher(smaller tooth count). Or some combo of both. Go to a gearing calculator, play with the numbers and figure out what will work for you. Then figure out the cheapest way to do it. That's the best advice I can give.