Originally Posted by
T-Mar
You can also gain some extra thread engagement by milling the top and bottom of the head tubes, However you have to take the headset cups into consideration. Taking off too much can result in the top and/or down tubes interfering with the cups and preventing full seating. Also, be aware that removing material from the bottom of the head tube will have a slightly affect on geometry. I don't know how much can be gained on the 3V lugs but with most lug design, it's possible to gain about 3mm in extra engagement.
Given what you've been though with the frame, I'd also consider a steering column replacement for the forks.
if this is like most Masi frames the “face” of the head tube/ lug end has about a 6 degree chamfer... I have seen the results of folk trying to mill off a mm or so off- looks ugly and presents a knife edge around the perimeter.
i made a purchase of a matching frame and fork... 29.5 mm to work with, I ended up getting two headsets to accomplish it, lower was a cheap Tange, I forget the other no name top section.
i have a Team 3V fork from a 54 cm frame, but one blade has a mid run doink. Henry James Masi crown- kind of needs a set of blades as Masi curves were essentially parabolic