Old 08-18-20 | 11:57 AM
  #6  
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79pmooney
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Originally Posted by Sorg67
Thanks for the comments.

It makes sense that moving the seat is not a good way to get the cockpit fit I want since the seat needs to be properly aligned with the peddles.

I am going to move it back to the middle and see how it feels.

I am going to get a new bike and a professional fitting. But I think I will have a better chance at getting a good fitting with some experimentation on my own so I gain a better understanding of the dynamics.

I have purchased clipless pedals and I have shoes on the way. I plan to get my bike fit as well as I can on my own. Then have it professionally fit. Then buy a new bike that has the right frame geometry for me and have that fit.
What matters is the seat location with respect to the bottom bracket AND your body. I have learned through the years what that is for me. On any bike I get, the seat goes "there". Now, to get my seat there, I might need to slide it back or maybe forward depending on how steep the seat tube angle is and how much setback the seat has.

Now where the seat rails ore concerned, if the seat is "slammed", especially if the clamp is sitting on the beginning of the rail curve, there is a greater chance of breaking the seat rails. I seek out seatposts that best center the rails, for that and ease of adjustment later but as long as the seat is where it should be for your body, that isn't critical. (Do your fitting first. Then you will know if a different seatpost is in order,
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