Originally Posted by
63rickert
Understand the principle. Already did that. Doubt I am attempting to execute anything at all like what you are doing. Just not getting the file to address only the indicated spots. It all gets cut off.
About the 98% part. What I am doing is tapping it once lightly with a hammer. Little enough it will come out just as easy to look at progress (hah!). Problem is that technique barely shows anything. To get a clear print it has to be fully assembled and test ridden. I am still hammering fairly hard on assembly. And then it is hard to get out and the threads mash.
I am not a mechanic. I have a head full of bicycle rubbish gathered over sixty odd years. Doesn’t mean my hands do it or my eyes see it. Need all the pieces plain.
Oh. How far, how deep, are we going? With each repetition the pin gets thinner. Or should it be such a fine file we get dozens of tries?
If you have old 9.0 pins I am buying.
And thank you.
I use a cotter press to get the 98% there now, but I have used a hammer in the past. That is when I ruined some new "soft" cotters.
Always check flatness after a few file strokes. You can't just file the "high" spots, needs to be blended on the entire flat side. Also, put a cotter onto the spindle without the crank arm, it helps visualize what it in contact and what is not.
And sometimes, you need to make your own "tricks" through trial and error. You got to do it wrong 10 time before you get it right.