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Old 09-02-20 | 10:56 AM
  #12  
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dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Keep in mind that if you "squeeze the fork blades together" that the odds are very great that one blade bends a lot more than the other. Two identically-manufactured fork blades tend not to have the exact same yield point, at least in part due to residual directional stress imbalances in the metal that result from cold working (both before and after brazing).
It's even more pronounced with chainstays of course, because of asymmetric dimpling done to the right chainstay.

A good test of whether the fork spacing has been altered is whether a properly-dished front wheel has the rim centered under the crown, since any squishing down while the wheel was out will typically leave the fork tips off center. Then ride it of course, check if it pulls to one side. If it pulls to the right then the tire contact patch needs to somehow be moved to the right, either by dishing the wheel, moving the fork legs over, or perhaps even filing the dropouts (saved for last because it's irreversible).
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